Weeping rivet repair ?

Discussion in 'Boat Talk' started by Carpfisher, Aug 31, 2014.

  1. Carpfisher

    Carpfisher Well-Known Member

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    I had a crack welded on my 14'er. Fixed that leak but the heat from the weld did an expansion contraction thing in another area and now a couple rivets weep.
    Should I, after scrubbing with stainless steel brush and acetone,
    A.-5200
    B-JB Weld
    C- Weld, thinking probably not.
    or D- add another bilge pump and bucket cause its never gonna be right.

    I'm leaning towards the 5200 though I've heard JB Weld working on filling corrosion pits, which I think is worse than my weeping rivet.
    Thanks for any words of wisdom…..
     
  2. Joey805

    Administrator

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    I vote for the 5200. I've used it on past owned aluminum boats and it's worked fine.
     
  3. Carnivore

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    If the rivet it's self is weeping then that can be cured just by smashing the rivet down some should solve the problem. If the seam is weeping then any 100% silicone will do. 5200 will work but it is expensive for such a small area. Aquarium silicone is about 5 bucks for a small tube and will work just fine.
     
  4. J Woodman

    J Woodman Well-Known Member

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    My last boat was a Valco and 5200 on a warm day was the trick.
     
  5. benrd81

    benrd81 Well-Known Member

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    Like Carni said you can try rebucking the rivet or I would go the clean then 5200 on a hot day. Let the tube heat up and that damn crap will go anywhere. Tape off where you don't want it though, stuff gets everywhere in a hurry.
     
  6. Carpfisher

    Carpfisher Well-Known Member

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    Smash down from the top ? Should I have someone hold a body shop metal dolly I think there called? One good whack? Bad thing is not knowing if the fix worked till the next weekend.

    5200 is 11.99 at Home Depot, almost 1/2 of West Marine. I'm in the process of 5200ing some 1/8 6061
    alumimum strapping next to all the stress cracked supports already, sounds like the leaking rivets will get a whack and a 5200eded aluminum top cap, hard to picture but I'll post pics tonight if I can
     
  7. benrd81

    benrd81 Well-Known Member

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    As in rebucking, one on top doing the hammering and one on bottom holding dolly. Other thing you can do to is to drill the rivets out and use the original or a closed end blind rivet. Just make sure to dab a little 5200 on the blind rivet before seating. Hope that helps.
     
  8. Carpfisher

    Carpfisher Well-Known Member

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    Just saw a good video. Yup solid dolly and a little whack/blap from my Chicago pneumatic 717 with the smoothing bit, top off with 5200 and brace
    going for the pics now
     
  9. sourcreamnjive

    sourcreamnjive Well-Known Member

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    Flex seal the rivets, the stuff really works!
     
  10. pete j

    pete j Well-Known Member

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    My old valco was a leeker I bought some gluvit from amazon.I never had a leek again in the 3 years I owned it, If all else fails gluvit works great google it
     
    #10 pete j, Sep 2, 2014 at 4:57 AM
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  11. Carpfisher

    Carpfisher Well-Known Member

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    I saw the gluvit but went with a couple whacks and 5200. Gluvit was more watery. Will check for leaks next Sat.
    Thanks
     
  12. Bearfish

    Bearfish Well-Known Member

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    Cut a hole in yer boat the size of a screen door works or got a pin hole and dont feel like doing all the prep to fix it works? LOL

    They make it in black and in white....why not the color of that aluminum boat for a less obvious look? Things to ponder.
     

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