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Old 11-16-2006, 12:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Name: Herb Schmidl
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Carnie, knew you could handle it!!! good luck to ya
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Old 11-16-2006, 03:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Name: Bill Osborne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Woodman View Post
Are you going to go to CIH or Ventura? Also, have you figured out how to steer with two motors? Maybe a bar attached to both tillers just behind the throttle with some sort of pivoting mount. You are just the kind of guy to figure that out.
I think that the steering link is going to be a piece of cake compared to the single throttle control for both motors. but then again, drew DOES have two hands. Just imagine "synchronized, behind the back, titty twisters"
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Old 11-16-2006, 04:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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sweet rig! why the two motors?
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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[quote=Are you going to run them both at the same time because with both props turning in the same direction the torque steer will be a pain especailly on a boat that light.[/QUOTE]

I have heard this too. usually when you have dual motors, one prop spins right, and the other left. Maybe it wont make a difference with only 20 hp?

ANYWAYS, GOOD LUCK!! Lemme know if you need any help on the water.
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Name: Drew
Location: Thousand Oaks
Vessel: 23' Striper WA/ 250 Yami OB- blood thirsty
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Ok first question is steering...Well??? I can set up a duel out board control but it runs 1800 bucks so that is out. The single bar link was my first Idea but further working out the logistics it wouldn't work other then I have to drill holes in the carry handle and put a receiver on both motors with a bar between. This will put the control bar below the tiller arms and the shifters. Once I put it up in mock up it would bind when turning but full turn it bound against the transom. Now the plan is to run a all thread bar from the starboard side to the starboard motor and lock it into position and just use it to run but have a quick disconnect to unhook it if I get in a position to need it.

The motor are not set up to anti caveatted but on 10 HP motors there isn't enough torque to really throw off the steering. Using the one motor to just move around is much harder to steer then the cavitation is.

The two throttles is the easiest part. Keep the one twist grip then use a ATV thumb throttle with a cable over to the other side to throttle it up. That I figured out it was steering that was the second hardest then shifting that was and still is a huge pain.

Weight is a small problem I am not sure about. The 9.9 Johnson I had on it with this Honda was 20 pounds lighter but this way I only have one gas tank as these are 4 stroke and the 9.9 was 2 stroke (mixed gas) so I had to have two gas tanks with 6 gallons a piece so that is 40 pounds or saved. We shall see Saturday.

2 motors well speed is one but the most is with hooping we are sometimes 1 or 2 feet off the break wall. If I should wrap the prop up on one I have another that I can stay out of trouble with. Now that isn't when 3 foot rollers are behind us but at least I have a better chance of getting out of trouble. Then if I have one break I still can make it out then one of these will be the kicked part time for the 23 foot boat I am in the process of fixing.

PHEW!!!!! that is a lot.... Thanks guys I am just happy I didn't get taken on this or at least not yet. Time will tell.

Oh and the message I left was not nice but nothing I have to apologize about until he calls me back with some info about why this thing was bathed in oil.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I assume you have looked at Price Range: $198.00 - $200.00
E. Z. Steer connectors are simple to install using quick connectors and clamp-on motor brackets. Each kit includes everything you need to install the self-adjusting steering rod. Great for trolling as you won't have to... More
E. Z. Steer connectors are simple to install using quick connectors and clamp-on motor brackets. Each kit includes everything you need to install the self-adjusting steering rod. Great for trolling as you won't have to hang over the transom to steer anymore. Improves boating safety and convenience by letting you steer from the main wheel. Lets you steer both your main and auxiliary motors with your main steering wheel, even if one is raised or tilted. Once installed, there is no need to disconnect during your main power run. Turns are no problem. Rod automatically adjusts when more than 18 lbs. of pressure is exerted against the left or right turn stops of the auxiliary. Stainless steel rods. Mounting brackets are stainless steel, dipped in black vinyl. No holes to drill. Available: Outboard-To-Outboard (not including Honda) Mercruiser Stern Drive to Outboard Kicker 1990 Mercruiser Stern Drive to Outboard Kicker 1991 and Newer OMC Cobra Stern Drive to Outboard Kicker Volvo Stern Drive. I know it says not Honda but I have seen them used there and this note is not on the manufactures website.
These are real popular on sailboats and boats with outdrives. There is no drilling on the motor and they adjust.

For working near the breakwall I recommend a bow mounted trolling motor and oars. The same floating line that can foul one prop can foul the one 18 inches away.
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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hey carni, check this out. This is all hypothetical, but some good info here:
iboats Boating Forums - twin tiller engines? - Outboard Non-repair Discussions - powered by bbBoard v2
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Name: Drew
Location: Thousand Oaks
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Grantar the problem with a bow mount motor is the hoops come in that way. It will get tangled up. The Idea is to not tangle the second and all though phoo phoo happens it did happen to us last year and I luckily had another motor and it got us out of the problem and back to the dock to fix it. How I used to run the boat was the 9.9 was pretty much frozen in place and I tighted up the head bolts to keep in on an even keel and then used the long Honda to steer it. I will start out that way to begin with then if I can work out a 2 steering idea I will. I will look into the ezy steer and see how it works my problem with these set ups is the pain it is to get the motors off and I have to take them off to clean the boat. Flip over and hose out LOL but hay it works. Thank you big time for the info as up till know I have only found hi end EXPENSIVE units.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If it will work the EZ Steer unit will pop off reasonably easy. The other thing is with an extra mount it will let you steer it off of the main motor on your bigger boat.

Sounds like you need the pressure hose, wet dry shop vac and sponge method of cleaning rather than roll the boat.

Understand about the trolling motor, I am used to bringing my nets in over the side about a quarter of the way back from teh bow. Perhaps the advantage of an inflatable.

Good luck.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Name: Drew
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Ya looking into it the Ez steer might work well. I need to check further but thanks a TON!!! I think it will solve my problem.

As for cleaning the boat I am looking for a fantastic aluminum welder I want to put a bigger hole in the back of the boat with a pressure door I can open and just hose out all the stuff. It just won't fit out the 1" hole in the back and I keep having to clean out the thing and OOOHHHH it's a pain. I just turn the boat on it's side and in 5 minutes it is clean and all ready drying. Nothing is ever easy..... Thanks Grantar for the info that is cool.
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