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Old 02-18-2007, 06:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Name: Bill Osborne
Location: Ventura
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,545
Trawler update and I need steering assistance

I had to take a few months off working on the trawler due to buying/selling/moving/remodelling residences and moving my business to Ventura. But I'm now able to make time again for this "labor of love" project.
I'm sure you all know the feeling

the original muffler had a "water non-retention" problem:
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/...C00130-med.JPG

got a new muffler:
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/...C00138-med.JPG

anyone care to give me a few ideas on how to secure it? This is under the aft queen sized bed. There are 2x3 joists that drop in over the muffler to support the plywood & mattress.(see original muffler pic) I'm thinking either a battery-box-type of strapping to the floor. or making a "saddle" that fits to both sides and secured to the floor. with the straps, again, to secure it in place.

the original Wagner steering pumps were the "non-rebuildable" variety. notice the aluminum shaft:

http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/...C00136-med.JPG

got a pair of Wagner 700 steering helms. notice the brass shaft. this is a picture of the upper helm with the vented cap:

http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/...C00142-med.JPG

and a new Wagner steering ram:

http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/...C00143-med.JPG

Seeing how I have never bled a dual helm station system with auto-steering at both helms, I do need to find a local boat owner/mechanic who does have experience and who can also walk me through it and tell me how to bleed the minor residual air that remains in the system. (this should be no problem at the marina that I am in) I am sure that this is a very simple process, but having an experienced person teach me and walk me through it PROPERLY sounds a lot less "messy" than the alternative.

With the new muffler installed, I was finally able to get the Isuzu diesel engine up to running temperature. This means the final "burping" of the coolant system is possible. After I pull up the deck to add whatever coolant is needed and double-check 'everything', I'll be able to run it for a half hour or so to see what the water temp stabilizes at; I'm thinking between 190 - 200 degrees. Any recommendations for "cruising RPMs"?? I held her at 2000RPMs for about 15 minutes after the muffler was installed. I'm thinking this RPM range would be higher than what will be needed for her "hull speed" of 8-9 knots.

If I am comfortable that the cooling system is properly operating, the scariest part of this entire ordeal is next: pulling in and out of the slip UNDER HER OWN POWER. This lady hasn't moved on her own for at least 7 years that I know of...maybe longer. Backing out should be no problem. It's the pulling back in - without bouncing off every piling, dock and neighbor - that will be educational. (yes, I currently have TWO liability policies on the boat) I've done this with sailboats, but they respond a bit differently to the helm...or so I have been frightened into believing. What should help me out here is the full length keel that she has. I've always loved "full-bodied" women, so we should get along just fine in the "in & out of the slip" part of this relationship.

Here is where I need some local GetBent assistance/direction:
Have any of you ever bled this type of steering system? Or do you know of anyone who has and could work with me on this. I don't expect a freebie. Payment in cash, trip, and/or beer will be gladly provided.
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Name: Drew
Location: Thousand Oaks
Vessel: 23' Striper WA/ 250 Yami OB- blood thirsty
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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For the muffler I would look for vent pipe straps at a hardware store. They run up to 14 inches so you should be able to find one to fit that. they are big hose clamps with a metal base and to ears to put screws through to mount them. Look in the area where the heater pipe for houses are.

Is the steering powered off the motor or not? if so it is easy if not then is this system plumbed by running the top helm steering pump run down to the bottom helm then out to the rudder? If so then it isn't easy but do able. Do the helm pumps keep turning when you turn them or are they set to a certain number of turns then locks up on it's own? If the first one then you have to fill the top unit and turn the wheel to pump the fluid through the system with the lines off the steering head (keel) but tied together so the fluid can run though the system. The top pump will push fluid through the bottom one and it should start turning too. Just keep doing it putting fluid in so it doesn't run dry or you will have to keep turning till the air bubble you put in comes back around.

The latter one I don't remember but I think we had to pull off the hydraulic lines and fill them independently or put the fluid in then put air pressure in the pump head till fluid come out the bottom. I will check into it.

Man time to pull the hydraulic books out of storage hehehe.
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Name: Bill Osborne
Location: Ventura
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,545
thanks for the suggestion on the straps. obviously, if they are metal they have to be stainless steel. I've seen rolls of vinyl-type "plumbers tape" that might also work. I'm thinking that I need to make some wood pieces to prevent any side-to-side rolling of the muffler. and then strap it down and in place

The steering is a basic Wagner system that is helm to helm to steering ram and back...with autopilot pumps hooked in at both stations. I have the instruction booklet that came with the pumps and the steering arm, but have never personally performed "the operation". The people who Ive talked with about this say that its really pretty easy...after you've done it once and you have gathered all the stuff that you need. You just have to know where to place small pans and towels for the inevitable hydraulic fluid "OOOPS". There is also a fill tube provided that must remain filled with fluid once started...or you start over again with a new air bubble. The advice here is to hook it to the cap of automotive radiator overflow container, turn the container upside down, and cut a hole in the now-top to pour the hydraulic fluid in. Then there are the bleed screws back at the steering ram that need to be opened and closed..... It definitely sounds more complicated than it really is.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Name: Drew
Location: Thousand Oaks
Vessel: 23' Striper WA/ 250 Yami OB- blood thirsty
Occupation: Zebco Pro-staffer
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 15,800
Ok then you have an auto pilot well that was info I NEEDED FROM THE START LOL!!!! Ya it really isn't that hard just time consuming. let me know if you need a hand I can work a Saturday or Sunday in and it will be working in no time. Or we can just go get drunk to relieve the stress. Either way something gets accomplished.
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